Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Which CoffeeShop/Beach/Playground Should We Go To Today?


Well, we've been in New Plymouth about a month.  Which means it's been about TWO months since I've done any doctor-ing at all.  As I'm waiting for Patrick to get home to hear about his shift today, I'm half-excited and half-a-little-bit-bummed about going back to work (my first shift is tomorrow), because I've had such an amazing time with my munchkins.  To celebrate the end of this era, I think I'll title this post: "Which CoffeeShop/Beach/Playground Should We Go To Today?" as an homage to the unbelievable number of kid-friend beaches I've discovered throughout our thumbprint peninsula over the past few weeks.

There's Fitzroy Beach, to the east end of town, hosting this adorable outside cafe called Paris Plage, which is a coffee shop/pizza parlor out of an old boxcar.  During the day, they set up bean bags, a rope swing, set out kids toys (including scooters, balance bikes), all for free play.  It's, obviously, next to a great big sandy beach and the eastern end of the coastal walkway.

Coffee in the front ...

Tasman Sea in the back ...
Not too shabby.

There's Oakura, about 15kms outside of New Plymouth: beautiful wide black sand beaches with gentle waves.  Oakura is, for all intents and purposes, a surfing village that doubles as a commuter suburb for New Plymouth.  Its "downtown" is two blocks of surf shops, cafes, a gas station, a preschool, and an upscale salon.  It's a completely pleasant little neighborhood to spend the afternoon, and within walking-distance are a grassy playground, a not-sketchy-at-all skate park, and some amazing food trucks (Elaine, from New Mexico, sells ice cream on hot days and Francoise, from, naturally, France is the go-to espresso guy.  Holy Guacamole sells "Mexican Food," which I prefer to anywhere I'd found in New Mexico.  Is that blasphemy?).  It doesn't hurt that the "restaurants" are basically bean bags and picnic blankets on a lawn by the sea.  The Oakura Boardriders Club has a yearly fee of $100 per family for unlimited surfboard rentals.  Oakura is also home to Corbett Park, which is a basically a grassy river outlet with shallow running water and (always handy) clean public bathrooms.  We have zillions of pictures from the Oakura Beach and Corbett Park, but I'll just show a few of my favorites.

Where the river meets the sea
"This is awesome!" - Elise

Would probably say the same thing if he could talk.
The closest beach to us is five minutes away and in Moturoa.  There isn't a coffee cart, but there are some great waves (a true surfer's beach -- always a VW van full of grimy dudes parked nearby) and a small creek for the kids.  It's next to the Sugar Loaf Islands and Paritutu Rock, so the scenery is outstanding.

Sugar Loaf Islands in the background -- protected land since 1986, breeding ground for seals and seabirds, totally possible to see a whale or a dolphin swimming nearby.
5pm playtime
Elise starts preschool next Tuesday (tear!) so not sure if we'll still have as much time for seaside exploring, but I think we're off to a pretty good start!

Fun (fun?) fact about New Zealand, speaking of the beach, is how intense the sun is down here.  For those who don't know, the UV index is a standard measurement of the strength of the sun at any place and time.  Starts at zero (nighttime), you should wear sunscreen above 3, and usually tops out around 14 near the equator (although apparently the world record was 43 (similar to Mars), Bolivia, 2003). In the summer months, we routinely get up around 12-13 during mid-day.  New Zealand has the second highest rate of skin cancer in the world (after Australia).  Public outdoor events almost always feature this sign and have sunscreen stations next to the water stations.



Side Note: Sunblock here is ridiculously expensive.  If you're planning on sending us a care package, including a bottle of this liquid gold would be greatly appreciated.

Hope you enjoyed the post!

Saturday, February 14, 2015

Mount Taranaki

First of all, apologies for the delayed post. We (still) don't have internet in the new house, so I can only get a little writing done on the few times I can escape to an internet cafe or the library.  Now that we've had a few weeks to explore the area, I think it's time to spend a few posts on specific aspects of the country, our region in-particular.  This week: Mount Taranaki (or Mount Egmont, depending on how colonial you're feeling).

At 8260 feet-tall, this active but quiescent (fingers crossed) volcano is the dominant feature of the Taranaki region.  It's one of the most symmetric volcanoes in the world, and was used as the backdrop for the movie The Last Samurai because it looks so much like Mount Fuji.

Mt. Taranaki
Mt. Fuji (Wikipedia)
It's an active volcano and has minor eruptions every 90 or so years, with major eruptions every 300-500 years (the last being around 1655).  We're apparently overdue for an eruption, and should expect something sizable in the next 100 years, although the city (New Plymouth) seems to be relatively clear from any major destructive paths.  We did pick a rental house on top of a hill (thanks Jonny), just in case.  For the geeks out there, I put a link from the GNS Science Webpage about the Taranaki/Egmont Volcano Geology to the right.

The volcanoes of the North Island seem to be truly sacred to those who live here, so I'll discuss them briefly.  Most of the central part of the island is basically one big volcanic plateau.  Lake Taupo is a 238 square-mile lake that sits in the caldera of what sounds like an apocalyptic supervolcano eruption 27,000 years ago.  South of this lake is the mountainous region Ruapehu which contains three active volcanoes Tongariro, Ngauruhoe, and Ruapehu.  This area is Tongariro National Park and it was the first National Park in the world to be gifted by indigenous people (the Tuwharetoa Māori), who did so on condition the land be kept sacred.  It's now a dual World Heritage Site for its natural and culture value.  And then of course there is Taranaki, where we live.

The Māori legends surrounding the volcanoes are spectacular.  In them, all the volcanoes were once gods and warriors.  There were all male, except one (Pihanga), who was so stunningly beautiful that all the other mountains were in love with her.  One night there was a great battle (think volanco: lava, smoke, ground shaking) which was ultimately won by Tongariro, who became the king of the land.
He commanded the other volcanoes to vacate and, come daybreak, they would be frozen for all time wherever they stood.  Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu moved just to the south of Tongariro (and together form that National Park I was previously discussing).  Putauaki moved east to a town now called Rotorua, and became sacred in its own way.  Tauhara was stricken with grief and stayed on the shore of Lake Taupo so he could forever gaze at his lost love.  Taranaki, on the other hand, was so angry over the loss that he left a great gash in the land as he stormed off to live by the sea.  The tears he cried filled the gap and created the Whanganui River.  The breathtaking Taranaki sunsets are said to be Taranaki showing off to Pihanga.

Phillip Capper from Wellington, New Zealand - 10 August 2008 - Taranaki daybreak 13 Uploaded by PDTillman
Surrounding Mount Taranaki is New Zealand's second National Park, Egmont National Park (Tongariro was the first), which contains some great old-growth forests ("a forest that has attained great age without significant disturbance" -- from Wikipedia).  A NASA satellite image impressively shows where the National Forest ends and the dairy farming begins.

During our two weeks pre-work, we had several opportunities to explore Egmont and are seriously impressed with the vast networks of trails and how well everything is kept.  There are free guides everywhere about different walking and hiking trails (several under 2 hours and kid-friendly) both in and around New Plymouth and the Park itself.  Here are some photos from our two most recent hikes.

snacks at the top

so strong!

an unbelievable number of stairs

taking a break with dad


on our way to Dawson Falls, before the rain




crossing a stream, baby-in-tow
It helps, especially when hiking with children, that New Zealand has no poisonous snakes, spiders, or scorpions and has no warm-blooded mammal predators except what has been introduced by settlers.  Coming from the death-trap that was New Mexico, it's nice to know that that rustling in the bushes is, at worst, a pig or a possum (as opposed to a bear or a mountain lion).  The mosquitoes are also relatively free from the nasty things (no malaria or West Nile here), although they're just as annoying.  And I already got stung by a bee while putting up the laundry.  Yuck.

Pat and I wound eventually like to get up the Mount Taranaki Summit Track (14kms, lots of vertical gain), but I think we should first work on making it through a morning hike without someone falling asleep.


Passed Out
Cheeks still full of apple bits